If you wince at the thought of endless days roasting yourself scarlet on sands packed with hung-over Brits and screaming kids, so crowded it makes Glastonbury festival look open and airy, you’re in luck. All you have to do is make your way a few short miles inland to experience a completely different Portugal from the seething tourist resorts dotted along the coastline.
There are plenty of off-resort natural wonders to discover along Portugal’s enormous coastline, of course. Secret coves and deserted sands, huge dunes, nature reserves and surfing havens, it’s about so much more than the madding crowds here. But if you love foresty and mountainy stuff more than the sandy side of life, you might like to go off-piste and explore rural Portugal.
Beyond the sands – Beautiful places to go in rural Portugal
The Algarve is a top destination but even down there, where visitors flock, it’s so much quieter just a few miles inland. Many villages are almost completely untouched by tourism, but hooked up to fast internet access so you can use your gadgets out there. It isn’t the Middle Ages, but in other ways it’s like going back in time.
Expect enchanting landscapes, sleepy ancient villages, and taste after vibrant taste of cultural richness you just don’t see in the resorts. All set against a serene landscape that varies from woods to mountains, plains to vast winding rivers, and fertile farmland.
Interestingly, it’s a trend. They call it Aldeias de Portugal, where you stay in rural accommodation to explore and discover the mellower, more laid-back Portugal behind the coastal glitz and glitter. Perfect for nature lovers, ideal when chilling out is top of your holiday menu, wonderful for foodies and inspiring for artists, a joy for hikers and drivers, the Portuguese countryside is always romantic. Stay in a renovated rustic house in a remote, peaceful village if you like, and slow your life right down.
Peneda-Gerês National Park and more
Peneda-Gerês,Portugal’s one and only national park, is a place of stunning landscapes, lush forests and sparkling lakes. It’s adored by hikers and wildlife lovers, home to Iberian wolves and huge golden eagles. This is where they make the famous Vinho Verde wine, not green but new and fresh, a wine you drink when it’s young. They also keep bees, so don’t miss the local honey, literally one of the flavours of the landscape made from wildflower blooms.
Another source of natural wonder is Serra da Arrábida, a natural park just stone’s throw south of Lisbon. Expect a dramatic blend of mountains, dense forests and truly awe-inspiring beaches, great for walkers. Mountain bikers also love it, a feast of rugged thrills. Then there’s the magnificent Lousã Mountain area, becoming more popular with eco-tourists with numerous remote ‘schist villages’ to experience, nature walks, craft workshops, plus endless, magical miles of hiking and walking. Piódão is well known for its beautiful schist stone houses, just one in a network of ‘Historical Villages of Portugal’. Think the Flintstones and you get the idea.
Arouca Geopark, in the Norte region, is another wonderland of natural marvels as well as the source of a top-class adrenaline buzz. Dare you walk along the world’s largest suspended pedestrian bridge? It’s quite something being so dizzyingly high above the landscape on such a skinny bridge. And can you handle the dizzying vistas along the steep and winding Paiva Walkways? This place is full of geological interest, from the Giant Trilobites of Canelas to the weird ‘birthing stones of Castanheira’ and the bizarre Icnhofossils found at Paiva.
Aveiro, the Venice of Portugal
While it isn’t exactly off the beaten track, the coastal town of Aveiro with its pretty canals, vividly coloured Moliceiro boats and relaxed vibe make it a treat to wander around, a breath of fresh air. There are people, but it isn’t too mental-crazy. Nearby Costa Nova Beach, known for its quirky candy-striped houses, is a nice destination for a walk, a calmer seaside escape than the popular holiday beaches.
Águeda is just a short drive away from Aveiro, where you’ll find the delightful Umbrella Sky Project along with plenty of exciting street art. You can almost feel the creative energy in this place.
The Alentejo Wine Region
Tranquility rules here, a world-class destination for wine lovers stacked with a multitude of vineyards and wineries set amongst scenic rolling hills. Many of them offer superb food as well as wine tasting and tours, and some provide accommodation. The old city of Evora, a UNESCO World Heritage site and extremely beautiful, features a lovely mix of Roman ruins and medieval buildings.
Monsanto, the most Portuguese village of all
Built on and around giant granite boulders, Monsanto is a breathtaking village. The Castle of Monsanto is the go-to spot for the best photos, views you’ll recall for a long time to come.
The ultimate in eye candy, the town was voted the most Portuguese village in Portugal in 1938, and it’s basically a living museum. The residents can’t just bung on an extension or build a garage. Building and development are strictly regulated to keep the look. And what a look it is. Most of the steep winding streets are far too narrow for cars, the chunky houses are built all higgledy-piggledy, and everywhere you look there are enormous rocks, some the size of buildings. You’ll find tiny shops, cafés and restaurants to explore hidden away.
More off-the-beaten-track Portugal treats
Tavira is a small town with a big history, full of traditional charm with beautiful beaches nearby, a great little all-rounder for Portugal day trips. A cool river, a lovely island beach, a genuine Roman bridge, castle and churches give way to the serenity of the wildlife-rich Ria Formosa lagoon.
Tomar is just as awesome, famous for its fascinating Templar heritage and home to the Convent of Christ, another UNESCO World Heritage site offering oodles of beautiful, intricate Manueline architecture.
Marvão is in the Alentejo area, one of Portugal’s many amazing hilltop villages, visible for miles around, like something out of a painting. The castle and panoramic views, medieval streets and exceptional local cuisine make it a must-do. Then go explore the entire region, stopping off at every hill village you come across. It really is an Instagram heaven.
When you’re into the graceful and the old, the Misarela Bridge in the Gerês region is a treat, a gorgeous medieval bridge surrounded by beautiful landscapes, lovely and peaceful. Then there are the magnificent Conimbriga Roman Ruins near Coimbra, famed for their exquisite mosaic floors.
Portugal’s oldest town, Ponte de Lima, comes with an ancient centre of unusual beauty, a Roman-Medieval bridge that still carries traffic – remarkable – and a nice, laid back feel. This is the route the pilgrims once took, walking the Caminhos do Minho to Santiago de Compostela. Tourists are few and far between in the town so you’ll be able to get a tantalising flavour of the real Portugal here.
Out there… discover rock art in the Azores
Feeling extra-adventurous? Grab a flight from Faro, Lisbon, Porto or Funchal to the Azores, where seclusion is the name of the game and nature’s wild majesty makes you feel very small indeed. Traditional thinking said the Portuguese were the first to discover the Azores, but science disagrees. In 2010 a brilliant discovery was made, proving ancient people carved, etched and painted in caves and elsewhere. The artwork is well preserved, along with megalithic structures, on the little island of Terceira.
So that’s it… for a start! Rural Portugal is huge, giving you endless opportunities for adventure, and we’ll be covering more of it.
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